[与君一席] 这么的一座城市

很难用三言两语来形容这个城市,有人说它是个典型的游子城,有人说它是个移民城市,有人形容它为世界上发展脚步最快的城市。
深圳这个地方的确独特。短短 30 年之间从一个人口仅仅两万的渔村迅速发展成现在九百多万人口的大城市。这只不过根据中国大陆的户口统计,有很多外来的游子并没有注册成为深圳户口。加上到深圳发展的香港生意人,恐怕深圳的人口已经超过一千万了。这仿佛说明了当初邓小平在这里设立经济特区的决定正确,为深圳,甚至整个中国大陆的经济发展埋下了极大的伏笔。于是,当每个人在讨论深圳的时候,总免不了提及到它的经济蓬勃发展。


中国在毛泽东时期经历了五十年代失败的大跃进和六十年代惨荡的文化大革命之后,加上七十年代后毛泽东时期的政治角力,整个国家经济更是陷入了低潮。于是乎,七十年代末,以邓小平为首的中华人民共和国对它的经济体系进行了改造,实施改革开放,打造“具有中国特色的社会主义( socialism with Chinese characteristics ”。 深圳在这个改革开放中扮演了重要的角色,在 1980 年,它成为了中国的第一个经济特区,也是改革开放的一个实验性的发展。在 1984 年,中国和英国发表了中英联合声明,表示香港在1997 年的回归后的“五十年不变”,不会影响香港的资本经济体系,马照跑舞照跳。

距离香港只有四十公里的深圳,很难不受这个决策所影响。深圳的蓬勃发展,随着世界的经济气候,共产主义的逐渐退色,外资的涌入香港的回归,中国加入世界贸易组织,渐渐迈向资本社会的形成。说穿了,具有中国特色的社会主义或许只是美其名的包装,内里实践的是着着实实的资本主义(capitalism )。

在 Thomas Friedman 的著作“ The World is Flat ”里头有这么的一段东西:
Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up.
It knows it must run faster than the fastest lion or it will be killed.
Every morning a lion wakes up.
It knows it must outrun the slowest gazelle or it will starve to death.
It doesn’t matter whether you are a lion or a gazelle.
When the sun comes up, you better start running.

深圳的人走路的速度很快,而且工作的时间也特别长,不分黑夜白昼,仿佛是一头饿慌了的狮子,只想追回比西方发展国家落后那十多二十年的经济速度。那还真可怕的。加上激烈的竞争环境,你不做大把人等着做的心态,打工仔只有做的份,根本没有 work-life balance 可言。马来西亚修桥补路可能花上三五七年,深圳只用三五七个月就搞定了。 Friedman 在书中猜测那只狮子很可能就是中国,而且是跑得很快的狮子。我看深圳的狮子不但跑的很快,而且只会一味地往前冲,充分表现出“生活就是为了工作,工作就是为了生活”的哲学。遇到这种狮子,你最好打醒十二分精神。

深圳的发展为中国十三亿人口造就了许多就业机会,吸引了大量的外地游子到来工作。深圳的人口多来自中国各地,近的湖南、湖北、苏杭、四川,远至东北的辽宁、沈阳都有。虽然深圳处在广东省,广东话的应用却不普遍,连粤菜馆、点心茶楼都少见,反而是卖川菜、湘菜、北方菜的菜馆多得是。广东话也只有在靠近香港的罗湖区比较常听得到,可是一听就知道是外地口音,说得比我这个“马来人”(中国人都简称马来西亚人为马来人)还要烂。这就是典型的移民城市。于是,深圳虽然得到成功的经济发展,在城市文化上的建立以及人文上的发展却来得畸形。

除了语言上的区别,深圳人的审美观念也挺特别的。我第一次在深圳搭巴士时,看到有个美女上巴士,我就告诉身边的男同事。他只是轻轻嗯了一声,“等一下你就知道会发生什么事了”这么说道。于是那穿着无袖上衣的美女走上巴士,把手抬高捉着扶手的时候,我恍然大悟,明白为什么同事对美女的反应那么冷淡了。因为她竟然没剃腋毛!

后来我发现很大部份的深圳女生都是那样。我不知道中国其他城市会不会也是那样。我本身到过广州和江门,倒没遇过这般“奇景”。或许对她们来说,女生留腋毛就好像男生长胸毛或留须根一样性感吧。我没去过问,只道是国情不同,或者是我孤陋寡闻而已。只不过,我对“香港人去深圳包二奶”的这种说法,存有着越来越质疑的态度。

深圳人的卫生观是我最不能苟同的。走在深圳的路上,你会听见很多“咔”――清喉咙的声音――然后,就是一口浓痰。随地吐痰在深圳亦是非常常见。当我想到在深圳的每一脚步都可能踏在曾经是浓痰的葬身地时,不禁皱起眉头,也替常遭浓痰袭击的花花草草叫屈。有一次我跟同事排队买地铁车票时,听见前面的阿伯喉头里“咔”的一声时,我们已经防备那口痰随时被吐在鞋子上。冷不防他竟然转身,就这么一吐,往我们身上吐来!难道把我们当作丐帮帮主不成?(参考金庸《射雕英雄转》)。好在我们身手敏捷马上闪开,不然这口痰恐怕会停留在我们的胸口或手臂上了。我有个来自新加坡的同事说,可能这吐痰的传统来自从前的皇帝,因为他们都有痰皿(又称痰罐)。“中国五千年的文化,到头来只剩下一口浓痰。”他感慨地说道。

经济改革开放地脚步,比起人文思想的脚步跑得太快,一流的硬体设备,却没有一流的文化及思想支撑,对于一个城市的人文发展其实存在不少潜伏的危机。尤其是像深圳那么年轻的城市,还有许多进步的空间,可别让人民成了资本主义的奴隶。或许大马的依斯干达经济特区应该引以为鉴。在下不才,在深圳呆的日子尚浅,粗略地分享了一些心得和见解。如有不到之处,还请前辈们多多指教。

梁广安

编按 : 广安曾为甲华第七届新春副主席,学生理事会副主席。现为电讯工程师,因工作之故游走各国。

9 Responses to “[与君一席] 这么的一座城市”

  1. [...] 我很久没有这样子写文章了。 [...]

  2. [...] 我很久没有这样子写文章了。 [...]

  3. 我的天!
    歪了。

    要关掉

  4. ok…
    正常回了。

  5. 广安兄台:
    无意拜读大作,嗯,就文章所感,有些观点或不能苟能,随回应,只为互相交流而已,言谈有不到之处,还望见谅。:)
    我和您该是MMU的校友。不同的,我从中国到马来,您从马来去中国。深圳那座城,KL这个暂时的落脚地,于你我,都是旅人的客栈,我们交换了主宾,所以有不同的感观吧。
    深圳,如您所知,从80年的小渔村发展起来,几家打渔人,中国砸了许多钱和政策,以你不能想象的速度砸在这个地儿。27年后,你看到了这个新新的城市。漂亮的楼,来自全中国的年青人,来自全球的企业驻中国公司。
    可是文化,文化的建设需要几久?全球几千年,才走过一个封建社会。深圳,漂着我们叫打工仔的大群人,他们可能几年前还在地里做农活,几年后,来这个城市打工,他脸上,日头的灼热还没褪却,裤脚的泥巴还未擦干。。。我也很不喜欢他随地吐痰,会脸红被你看到写在这里,真的。但我知道我能理解。文明的教化远远久于经济的发展,对于一个全身心都放在经济的地市而言,它能做的,只是抓大放小。比如一个跑步运动员,匆匆上场,发现对手早都开跑了,他能做的,只是抓紧时间跑去,有点顾不得在风中都流出来眼泪鼻涕还没擦干净,有点顾不得还没穿好运动衣还是只一身地里的打扮(中国80年前还是农业社会)。
    所以,怎么说呢,您是在不关已国的立场上,给点调侃,而我会说,我们会努力!
    人可能都有点看别人看的清,看自己看不透。呵呵。。。您现在在哪里呢?

    我在KL这座城呆了一年多,工作,居住,我怎么看这个有人讲华语,有人说马来,有人说着变调英语的城市呢?
    我觉得,它象个大农村,发展了四五十年,建筑破落的没有国际大都市的景象。这里有文化吗?中华独中的方校长跟我说:三语并重,其实是三语“病重”。政治是大部人马来华人的苟病,经济大企业在外逃,好玩的是,好多逃去中国。

    呵呵,我不是攻击,是因为,我们立场不同,所以都可调侃一样说说对方的短处。大家还是各看各的可爱,尽管,有一段时间是自己调侃的城市混饭。哈。

    有得空,我们email再讨论。yangsunyaa@yahoo.com

  6. 楼上的,别急!没文化的人在每个城市都有。

    马来西亚是个年轻的国家,今年50岁。吉隆坡这城市开发也100多年。这里说她没文化又不是。她是个混合体,有5000年的黄河文明的痕迹,有5000年恒河文明,也有1500年的伊斯兰教文明,当地的土著文化等等。她代表的是个新的东西。但我可以说她的文化定位不清晰,不明显。

    杨同学,我也是游子到吉隆坡这城市来生活。我们越出来煮酒论天下吧?电邮你我的电话了。

  7. 杨兄弟,原来咱们是校友,“兄台”二字可不敢当,如您所说,大家互相交流罢了。

    呵呵,您别误会,其实我只是把我所看到的,思考过的东西写下来而已,没有半点调侃的意思。可我很喜欢您的运动员比喻,实在太贴切了!

    我当然了解文化的建设并不是一朝一夕的事情。深圳的经济发展惊人,加上是经济特区,很多时候都被外资公司视为打入中国市场的门栏。经济和文化失衡的发展,可能让不少老外见笑了。

    我现在人在新加坡。说实话,在KL呆的日子比您还要短,或许您会有更多的见解呢。

  8. 大家都看到各自城市的不足,同时大家也都热爱各自的国家。就这样而已,没事儿。

  9. [...] 荟彧亭升级第二版了,然后我这个客串角色也升级成了配角。弄了一个【97秒】的专栏,对白应该增加了。 [...]

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